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On a recent trip to Florence, walking along Via Maggio, I suddenly stopped, turned to my wife, and gestured to the intricately decorated gray facade looming up before us. "It's the House of Bianca Cappello," I declared, awestruck. "I read about her in that Lewis book..." Indeed, the story of Bianca Cappello is one of the most memorable in this well-wrought book by R. W. B. Lewis. Compared to the typical "Florence: Cradle of the Renaissance" or whatever, this is a totally different take on the city. It's personal. It's intimate. And by not trying to be comprehensive, it dares to be fun. If you ever imagined yourself living in Florence, but it wasn't a practical possibility, Lewis has done it for you, and splendidly. Come on in and get to know the neighborhoods of Florence, meet the shopkeepers, stroll the back streets. Oh, certainly you'll need your Michelin, your Insight Guide, or your Baedeker when you visit the city, but be sure to read Lewis's charming book before you get on the plane.
R.W.B. Lewis was a professor of American Literature at Yale. He died at the age of 84, in 2002. Although Lewis lived in the United States, Florence was a city that he and his family visited for much of his life. Lewis spent some time in Italy growing up. During World War II he was in Italy with the OSS (the forerunner to the CIA). Lewis was on a boat which was sunk by the Germans and he managed to swim to land and evade capture until he reached the allied lines. Lewis was in Florence again after it was captured by the Allies. He returned over the years with his family.
Lewis' The City of Florence is both a biography of Lewis' experience in Florence and the history of the city. Lewis' historical sketches cover the city from medieval times to modern times (Lewis describes one of the modern floods of the Arno, the river that runs through Florence).
The City of Florence is not a travel guide. Lewis explored Florence in a random fashion, as anyone does when they live in a place. He discusses some of his favorite museums and places to walk, but it would be difficult to plan a trip based on this book. Instead what you get is some of Lewis' feeling for the Florence he loves.
Lewis never does write about exactly why he loves the city. Perhaps he considers it obvious. For example, why Florence and not Siena. Lewis even likes Florence in August, when most Florentine residents flee the city if they can. He does not comment on Florence's notorious traffic and he comments only a little on the struggle to preserve Florence in the face of modern development.
If you are planning on visiting Florence, The City of Florence is probably worth reading to get a feel for the city. Lewis' historical sketches of Florence are engaging and would also be a good preparation for a visit.
The author relates his love and appreciation of Florence, mixing his own personal experiences with historical background. It is not specifically a travelogue or guidebook, but more of a memoir, but it would serve as a useful companion on a trip to Florence or as informational reading beforehand. Not the best book out there, but a worthy addition to any Italophile's library.
